Day 2 ~ Portland,
OR to Beverly Beach State Park, OR
Portland is a
beautiful city, nestled between the Willamette and Columbia Rivers, it butts up
to the foothills of Mt. Hood to the east and the Coastal Range to the
west. Our road trip continues today as we headed out OR-26 to the beaches,
where you drive among the stately Douglas Fir, Cedar, and Alder (Mmmm, alder
smoked salmon!)
Our morning destination
was Gearhart, a tiny community with a big beach. We’ve been many times with our family and
always enjoy the place. We highly recommend
staying at Gearhart Ocean Inn (distinctivebeachlodgings.com) , a pet friendly retro style motel consisting of
12 cute little attached cottages. Across
the street is the Pacific Way Bakery & Cafe (pacificwaybakery-cafe.com), a treasure of a place. It's a coffee shop/bakery by day and a first-class (tablecloths, great menu, outstanding service) restaurant by night. Need groceries? You can get most basics on the other corner at Gearhart Grocery (gearhartgrocerycatering.com) and you can pick up a few things to take for lunch on the beach. About a three block walk is the beautiful beach where you can walk for
long distances in either direction. We
love to stroll around the village and look at the homes we’ll never afford or
fantasize about remodeling the ones we might.
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Gearhart |
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Gearhart | |
The northern OR
coast is stunning in so many ways; heavy forests line the mountains right down
to the beaches edge. Charming towns dot
the coast along the way (following US 101S), each with it’s own character . . .
Seaside with it’s “honky tonk” atmosphere, Cannon Beach with interesting shops including a wonderful kite shop (www.oregon.com/attractions/once-upon-breeze),
great restaurants, tidal pools that are easy to explore and stunning
views of Haystack Rock which is probably the most photographed formation on the
northern OR coastline; Manzanita hugging the hills down to its crescent shaped
beach.
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Haystack Rock |
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Manzanita | |
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Coastal Range |
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Continuing down 101 you reach a long stretch of sandy beach, home to the town of
Rockaway Beach. www.rockawaybeachor.us It’s long been known as a
seaside resort town and has a few condos and motels. Outside Rockaway is a cedar wetlands preserve
where you can see mammoth Western Red Cedars.
Also, you will continue to see the sea stack rock formations the OR
coastline is known for.
Garibaldi was once
a thriving logging community and Weyerhaeuser continues to operate a mill on
the bay providing jobs to the community.
An obvious landmark is the single smoke stack from the 1920s that still
stands today. Garibaldi lies at the
northern end of Tillamook Bay, and sport fishing is very popular here. There are some good spots for butter clamming
along the coast. www.visitgaribaldi.com
The OR coast is
where mountains meet the sea, it is home to giant red cedar, it supports
commercial and sport fishing, and it offers beautiful views of the Pacific
Ocean and its many bays. But you will
also note many dairy farms nestled between the coastal communities. The town of Tillamook lies at the
southeastern edge of the bay; both are named for the Native American tribe who
lived in the area until the early 19th Century. The Tillamook people spoke a dialect of the
Salishan language. Today, tourists know
Tillamook as the site of the Tillamook cheese factory and it is a popular
stopping spot for the tourist buses and drivers, ourselves included. It’s crowded but fun and you can get an ice
cream cone, taste the cheese samples, take a self-guided tour of the cheese and
ice cream making processes, and of course visit the gift shop or have a meal in
the cafeteria.
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Tillamook Cheese Factory |
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Cheese Samples |
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Yummy! Jamoca Almond Fudge |
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After eating ice
cream for lunch we decided to take a detour and leave 101, go out along the
coast to Cape Lookout State Park.
Located on the sand spit between the ocean and Netarts Bay, this area is
part of the Three Capes Scenic Route, and a nice respite as well as a pretty
“off 101” route. There’s camping and
picnicking , nature walks, beachcombing (watch for glass floats), and beautiful
views of the Pacific ocean. Be aware of
the tides as high tide will completely cover some of the beach. While at Cape Lookout we saw some
paragliders, which was fun to watch.
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Cape Lookout Fisherman |
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Cape Lookout |
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Hanglider coming over Cape Lookout |
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People flock to Lincoln
City in the summer to enjoy the beaches and all the tourist activities. It is actually a compilation of many small
communities and seems to stretch forever.
US Hwy. 101 winds from end to end and you can find lots of motels,
restaurants, shops and attractions all along the nine-mile route.

I consider Lincoln
City to be the Central OR coast; south of it are some of my favorite
communities. Depoe Bay offers a charming
coastal atmosphere and is known as “The Whale Watching Capital of the OR Coast”
from May through November. The small
downtown area is protected by a continuous sea wall, which offers views of the
Pacific, and its spouting horns, while browsing, dining, or walking
around. There are many lodging choices
in Depoe Bay but two very well known and respected accommodations in Depoe Bay,
each with it’s own character are worth noting.
The famed Salishan Spa and Golf Resort (www.salishan.com) lies just north of
Depoe Bay at Gleneden Beach. The Inn at
Arch Rock (innatarchrock.com) is a family owned and operated B&B perched on
a bluff high above the Pacific.
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Depoe Bay |
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Depoe Bay |
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Just south of
Depoe Bay is Otter Rock, aptly named, as the sea otters like to frolic on the
rocks. The Inn at Otter Crest, or the
timeshares make for nice accommodations.
Years ago, I stayed by myself for a week at the timeshares and enjoyed
the resort property and jaunts into Depoe Bay or down to Newport.
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Otter Rock Resort |
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Otter Rock |
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Devil’s Punch
Bowl is an impressive sea spouting horn.
Be careful of the spray at high tide, and at low tide, the cavern of
rocks is interesting.
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Devil's Punchbowl @ low tide |
One of our
favorite chowder and pie places is Mo’s.
Throughout central and southern OR you will see signs for Mo’s famous
chowder but this tiny location is a favorite. www.moschowder.com
It’s worth noting
that all up and down the OR Coast, the communities hold festivals throughout
the year and summer is of course the busiest time. You can participate or observe celebrations
of Rhododendrons or Tall Ships, and Native American cultures or Celtic. The choice is yours. A valuable resource is the website visittheoregoncoast.com/events/
Our day concluded
with arrival at our camping site, Beverly Beach State Park. It’s been a long day of driving, but only
covered about 200 miles since leaving the western suburbs of Portland. Remember our post about needing camping reservations? Well, it's a good thing we had them for this park as it was busy . . . lots of RVs, campers, and tents!
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Bob, the Axe Man |
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Driving the coast is slow going, but so worth
it! My insight into retirement is that I
must love the OR coast or I wouldn’t write such a long blog post about it. And, I’m only mid-way down the coast! More to follow, especially about the camping
experience and that rooftop carrier which hasn’t been too annoying today while
we traveled slowly and along the coastal route protected by the mountain range
east of us.