Monday, January 11, 2016

No Man's Land


Late last week we began another journey . . . this one to Costa Rica and Nicaragua.  We’ll be gone about two months and look forward to sharing our adventure.  It’s our first time to be “snowbirds,” escaping the winter for a warm climate.  However, this is not our first journey to Costa Rica.  We traveled here in 1996 and immediately upon landing knew that the country has been changed by tourism.  We flew from home to Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport, outside Liberia, Guanacaste.  Quirós served as the country’s president 1974-78.  The airport itself has been there for many years but a new terminal and additional runways were built 2010-12.  Our flights went well and we were actually able to catch a few winks during a 5-hour layover in DFW before flying to LIR.
Cots courtesy of DFW
The Guanacaste is a province in northwestern Costa Rica and the gateway to the Pacific coast beaches.  It has a dry climate for half the year, and a long economic and cultural history based in cattle ranching.  Through the years bordering Nicaragua laid claim to the Guanacaste causing tension between the countries.  Costa Rica has made a commitment to preserve its natural beauty and resources and tourism has made a major impact to the economy.  The tourists are drawn to the beaches and also to the seven national parks in the province.  The Guanacaste offers a magnificent coastline, volcanoes, mountains and a sunny dry climate during the winter months of the northern latitude countries, specifically Canada and the US.

Guanacaste
After 24 hours of travel we were exhausted and took the easy way out by staying at the Hilton Garden Inn near the airport for a couple nights.  Good food, clean room, comfy bed and refreshing pool . . . a good decision.  Although we did a double take when we got the AMEX notice about the hold on our credit card!  The we remembered the exchange rate of about $540CR/$1US.

No problemo!

Lobby flowers
We did take the taxi into Liberia for a day of exploring.  Using the Central Park as our base we wandered around town, visited a couple churches, and did a lot of people watching.  When lunchtime rolled around we chose Guana’s, across the street from the park and as it turned out they were playing NFL highlights of the December 2015 Seahawks/Vikings game when Seattle trounced MN 38-7.  It was fun to get excited about the upcoming playoff game!

Red-eyed frog decorations; symbol of CR

Iglesia Immaculada Concepcion de Maria

La Agonia Iglesia, founded in 1769

Liberia's central park
Great guacamole and football!


Museo de Guanacaste, old City jail  (closed for renovation)

We’d arranged for a shuttle to take us from the hotel to the CR/Nicaragua border at Peñas Blancas.  Fabrizio was our driver and an interesting, fun guy to be around.  A full-time school teacher he works part-time as a tour shuttle driver in part to better his English but also because he loves sharing Costa Rica and learning about where all the tourists come from.  We enjoyed the morning drive.   

Fabrizio


Volcan Orosi

The border was crazy busy with people and trucks everywhere.  The signage wasn’t very obvious and we walked all the way to Nicaragua before we realized we had missed the CR departure tax kiosk and the exit visa stamp.  Back to Costa Rica we went (with the kind help of Jorge, who spoke some English) and after paying $8/each and getting our stamp we walked back to Nicaragua.  You’d think that a border would be like a “line in the sand” but it isn’t.  Dragging our backpacks and luggage we probably walked about 1/2 mile each direction; not much but did I mention how hot it is in this part of the world at this time of the year?  Going back and forth we actually felt like we were in “no man’s land” until we had the Costa Rica exit behind us and the entrance taxes ($12/each) and passport stamps for Nicaragua in our hands. Here’s the good thing about being in “no man’s land” . . . there are some nice bathrooms outside the Costa Rica immigration office.  Donations are appreciated and toilet paper is free; just ask the attendant for it!

Trucks trying to get into Costa Rica
Free TP!
Before coming to Costa Rica we had read that there were as many as 7000 Cuban immigrants trying to cross the border from CR to NIC.  Fabrizio confirmed it for us and explained that many of them were waiting it out in the mountains and some would be at the border.  I’d say we saw about 200, in makeshift tents, just hoping Nicaragua would open its border to them.  I don’t think that’s going to happen.  The first thing we saw were a couple military regiments lined up with shields and rifles.  It was pretty unnerving. Apparently these Cubans made their way to Ecuador and up the Central American isthmus through Panama and Costa Rica.  They are trying to go all the way up to the US.  Why?  Because they fear with the warming of relations between Cuba and the US, the decades old policy of open immigration from Cuba to the US will be cut off.   As a follow-up note, we read today that 180 Cubans who are still in Panama will be flown to El Salvador, north of NIC, and can then begin the trek across Guatemala and Mexico to the US.  Interesting situation.

Cuban's makeshift camps

NIC military in the distance
Somewhere along our trek through “no man’s land” we met Ivan who claimed he was a representative of the “official” NIC taxi company.  I’m pretty skeptical but he walked right along with us, showed us which door to go for the NIC immigration entrance process, and met us on the other side of the building.  I took it as a sign . . . my Dad’s name was Ivan.  It had to be divine intervention, or maybe the tip Bob gave him. 


Ivan took us over to a taxi (didn’t look official) and off we went down the road to San Juan del Sur.  Maybe I should mention that drivers don’t seem to pay a lot of attention to double yellow lines or posted speed limits . . .

But we were delivered safe and sound to the SJDS central park, across the street from our apartment, La Terraza, rented through AirBnb.  https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1154075  It’s perfect for the week, very basic and in a great location.  SJDS is a small beach town; you can walk from one side to the other in about 15 minutes, which is going slowly so you can watch for the holes in the sidewalks. 
The beach is very gentle and the hills are marked with beautiful ocean-view homes overlooking the bay.  The town itself is largely known as a surfing town.  There are a number of surfers’ shuttle buses that take surfers to other beaches on the open ocean.  This area has caught the attention of world-class surfing competitions and also real estate developers.  We spent our first full day in SJDS wandering around, in and out of shops, drinking coffee and cerveza, buying groceries at the pulperías, and walking in the surf.
Looking south across the bay

Toward town

Church on the town square

Houses on the hill

Gentle surf in the bay
Yesterday we arrived in SJDS in time to see the second half of the Seahawks playoff game and this evening we are watching the Clemson-Alabama game; we are Clemson fans having lived in SC for four years.  The commentary is in Spanish, so it's like watching a whole new game!
Local beer


Monday was cruise ship day so all the street vendors were out on every corner and on the beach.  The cruise ship was small and we didn’t see all that many tourists in town.  Maybe we didn’t notice since most of them looked just like us . . . older couples wandering around town.  The other tourist demographic is largely the young crowd seeking the big waves.
  
Cruise ship and fishing boats
Dancers

Monkey
Everyone who travels will tell you “don’t go” unless you are going to be open to new experiences, embrace new cultures, and be a good ambassador of your home country.  Our insight for today is that we hope we rise to those criteria.  Thanks for following along as the journey continues.

Sunset over the bay at San Juan del Sur
 

Tuesday, January 5, 2016

New Year, New Adventures


Happy New Year!  Bob and I wish happiness, good health, and prosperity to all of our family, friends, and blog followers.  I cannot believe it is 2016 and Bob has been retired for seven months now.  We’ve been having a great time and expect 2016 to be filled with lots of opportunity to see new places and meet new people.  Welcome to our journey!
Winter's Welcome
 
Christmas Eve morning we headed over to Seattle, but had to take the “long” way around through the Columbia River Gorge, west to greater Portland and north on I-5 to Seattle, since our normal route over Snoqualmie Pass was closed.  Going this route is about 430 miles and took us 7 ½ hours as opposed to the more direct route of 210 miles and 3 ½ hours to our daughter Amy’s house.  Snoqualmie Pass had been closed off/on for days due to massive snowfalls amounting to more than they had in all of 2014.  Avalanche danger was the biggest obstacle, and rather than wait it out we felt lucky to have an alternate route.  The drive was beautiful and most importantly it was safe.  We were very pleased to arrive at Amy’s home.
Columbia River Gorge in Winter

Mt. Adams in the distance
 We enjoyed a wonderful visit with our little family on Christmas Eve.  Shane and Alex were able to join us before joining Alex’s family for dinner and leaving Christmas Day for Mexico.  Amy & Mike’s house was nicely decorated and attending services at their church made the evening exactly what Christmas Eve should be. 

Family!

Full moon on Christmas Eve
 

Christmas Day we traveled on over to Port Townsend.  Amy & Mike, and their loveable golden retriever (Daisy) joined us for the weekend.  It was a perfectly calm day, so riding the ferry and crossing the Hood Canal floating bridge was easy.  Along the way, we paused at the former mill town of Port Gamble, which has become a popular destination noted for its General Store selling old-fashioned candy and the beautiful St. Paul’s Episcopal church, a popular wedding venue.  If this picturesque community seems familiar it may be; it was widely featured in the movie, Snow Falling on Cedars. 

View toward Gamble Bay

St. Paul's Episcopal Church

Port Gamble General Store

Floating bridge across Hood Canal











Port Townsend is our “dream.”  If you have followed our blog you know we lived in PT for several years, continue to own property there and hope to build on it someday. We did spend some time this past week meeting with a local builder, trying to get a better understanding of our options.  It was a bit disappointing because our former discussions had been with another builder who specialized in custom homes in our development; however, he decided to close up shop and retire.  Good for him but now we need to think long and hard about what we want to do.  For now we’ll be content to visit frequently and get our dose of walking the beach at Kala Point and enjoy the many charms of this NW Victorian seaport town.

Pano of Port Townsend

Kala Point deer - they are very common in the neighborhood.

Bob, Mike & Amy @ Sirens

Kala Point Lagoon - that's a heron taking a rest
For a small town (9,000 population) Port Townsend has a plethora of very good restaurants.  One of our new favorites is Pippa’s Real Tea, where we enjoyed tea with scones topped by clotted cream and raspberry jam; for a few minutes we were transported across the big pond to England!  If you visit Port Townsend, and we highly recommend it, try to take in a movie at the Rose Theatre, a treasure within the historic district.   Toward mid-week we were blessed with good weather and the views across Puget Sound of the snow-covered Cascade Range and 10,781’ Mt. Baker were absolutely spectacular.

Try the scones with your tea!

Love the Rose!

Mt. Baker

The clear skies and good driving conditions continued for our trip home on New Year’s Day.  Again, it was a beautiful ferry crossing allowing for some great photo-ops of the western Olympic Mountains, the eastern Cascades crowned by 14,417’ Mt. Rainier, and the Seattle skyline.

Ferry across Puget Sound

Mt. Rainier behind the harbor

Olympics in the background of Puget Sound

Beautiful Olympics

Seattle skyline


View approaching Snoqualmie Pass
Snoqualmie
 















So the New Year is here and it’s time to tend to some practical matters.  There are always a number of “end of year” details to take care of and this year I find myself sorting out several medical billing details.  I’ve been trying to reconcile Medicare, my supplemental insurance and the hospital bills for my November hospital stay and also a couple outstanding procedures from October.  Each party is saying the ball is in another court and all I’m trying to do is pay my bills!

We also had to make another visit to the Social Security office to discuss our Medicare premiums.  We’d received notices from MC that our premiums were based on our 2014 earnings causing the premiums to go up by about 150%.  But as it turns out, retirement is considered a “lifetime event” and there is a form to fix that . . . of course!  Here’s a bit of insight into retirement for today . . . just when you think you have all the details worked out you don’t.  So be sure to open, in a timely manner, all the mail that comes from SSA, MC or your insurance company.   And, there’s a lot of mail from them!

In retrospect, 2015 was a very good year!  We enjoyed traveling throughout 25 states and visiting many good friends and sharing family time.  Looking forward, we leave later this week for our first sojourn as “snowbirds.”  We are “going big” and traveling to Nicaragua and Costa Rica for two months.  Why?  We visited Costa Rica for three weeks back in 1996.  It stuck with us, particularly the northern part of the country.  Once in awhile over the last 19 years we have commented that maybe we should “buy a coffee farm in Costa Rica.”  I don’t think that will happen, but we are excited to visit again.

Last spring we began researching some options.  Our goals were to stay at least a week in one place before moving to the next, rely on local transport rather than renting a car, and keep our costs down.  Since our 1996 trip Costa Rica has built a new international airport in the western province of Guanacaste, near the Pacific beaches.  This seemed like a good option for flying since we thought we’d like to end our visit with a week at the beach.  That airport (LIR) is outside the town of Liberia and a quick search indicated its proximity to Lake Arenal, the other priority on our list of destinations.   We decided to consider our lodging options prior to booking airline tickets and chose to go with AirBnB (airbnb.com) and VRBO (vrbo.com) accommodations, along with a timeshare week at the beach to end the trip.  It probably sounds backwards to book the end before the beginning but for us it provided a “locked-in” parameter to work from. 

Choices!
Once the final destination was booked we were able to figure out the rest.  We figured we had budgeted enough money for two months accommodations.  Looking at the map we realized that LIR was very near (couple hours) San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua located in the very bottom of that country on the Pacific coast.   That sounded interesting so we are going!  We were able to find an apartment for a week through AirBnB, so after a couple days hotel in Liberia we will head to Nicaragua.

When we leave San Juan del Sur, we will work our way back to Costa Rica and go up to Lake Arenal for an extended stay.  Again, we are using AirBnB and found an apartment available for four weeks.  It sounds perfect!

On our 1996 Costa Rican trip we used San Jose (the nation’s capital) as our base.  We are not “big city” people but one area of the city that appeals to us is Heredia.  It is in the NE suburbs and is known as the Colonial city part of San Jose.  We found a house available for week and it will help us make a loop from Arenal and back out to the Pacific coast for the timeshare week.  If you are counting, we have scheduled seven weeks’ accommodations so we have some room in the schedule to fill as we go along.  Pretty adventurous of us!

How are we going to get where we want or need to go?  Well, that is a big unanswered question.  We’d like to rely on local transport, such as buses.  We are confident that will work well for some of the shorter journeys but everything we have read warns about taking the buses for long hours of travel, mostly because of carrying luggage.  Apparently it is not very smart to place your luggage in the cargo holds where it is out of sight.  We are traveling with medium size roller bags and each of us has a backpack.  I guess we’ll try to hold the packs and keep the bags within sight.  Some of these warnings may be overly stated but the advice is worth heeding, for now anyway.

Why not rent a car?  The first obstacle is taking a rental car across the border between Costa Rica and Nicaragua.  It’s not allowed.  The next obstacle is price; it just seems very expensive to rent a car.  We did that for a week in 1996 and turned it in because the roads were a bit challenging and we’d learned there were plenty of other options.  So we’ll go with that approach for most of the travel.  We may decide to rent a car for some short day trips but for now we are playing it by ear.

With respect to airline fare and reservations, we got incredibly lucky here and are going to travel on our airline miles.  Yes, two round-trip tickets for the amount of taxes only.  The airline has booked us on the scenic route . . . we leave home (PSC) and connect through Seattle, Phoenix, Dallas and on to Liberia.  It’s about 24 hours of travel so yes it will be exhausting.  Coming home in March we are currently booked from LIR to Miami, Los Angeles, Seattle and home.  Also exhausting.  But, it’s a great savings!

Preparing for this trip required quite a bit of planning but in an exercise to “practice spontaneity” (I think that’s an oxymoron?) we are giving ourselves the freedom to wander roads less traveled and do a bit of exploring while there.  Let the adventure begin, and we thank you for following along!