Watkins are the Best Kin

Robert here, writing this blog entry.  The Watkins side of my family is primarily concentrated in the states of Virginia and North Carolina, with the exception of my father’s branch, which is scattered to the four winds in Michigan, Missouri, Colorado, and Washington.  For the past 35 years the VA/NC Watkins have gathered every year on the south end of Topsail Island, NC for a week long family reunion.  Even sporadically before this, going back to 1952, my father and his 3 brothers had vacationed together on the beaches of Wilmington, NC and Myrtle Beach, SC with their families.

The first cousins in 1952

The 4 brothers had a total of 15 children (my cousins), who became quite close due to these family reunions and other gatherings at the holidays, etc.  Most of the senior Watkins are gone now, but the fourteen remaining cousins still carry on the tradition with their ever-growing families.  If all the descendants were able to be here this week, it would be somewhere around 100 Watkins, ranging in age from 93+ to the newest little one born last month,

 

1958 Cousins

 

2016 Cousins

Our branch of the family is known as the JHW’s (Joel H. Watkins descendants), and due to our scattered locations we do not make it to the Topsail reunion every year, except for my oldest brother who lives in St. Louis.  We try to go every other year, and even this is getting harder with our kid’s schedules.  But 2016 is a big year, and all of the JHW siblings are able to go, along with most of their children.  The reunion is the same week every year during the month of July, and everyone reserves rental cabins at the end of the week for the next year.  We basically take over most available rentals on the south end of the island for that week.

Topsail Beach

Always Changing Beach

After having tried various other beaches around Wilmington and Myrtle Beach, we settled on Topsail Island around 1980.  The south end is a well-kept secret of quiet residential streets and the best beach around.  The central and north end of Topsail is more developed, louder and more crowded, while “our” end is perfect for relaxation.  Topsail is a narrow strip of sand, about ½ to 1½ miles wide and 27 miles long.  With the Atlantic on one side and the Inland Waterway (the Sound) on the other side, the island offers something for everyone; ocean fishing, sound fishing, crabbing, beach walking, shell and shark tooth hunting, beer drinking, sun bathing, swimming, playing beach bocci ball, visiting with relatives, etc., etc.

"Our" spot on the beach

Beach Bocci Ball game

Sand Babies

I have lots of fond memories of the beach from my childhood – getting blue crabs to follow a fish-head on a string into shore where we could net them; trying to find the biggest fossilized shark tooth in the sand; looking for ghost crabs on the beach at night; and skinny-dipping in the ocean after dark.  Our cousins were our best friends for a week, and they still are!

The beautiful Sound side of the island

The cottages on the island are all built on pilings that keep the living area about 10 feet above ground.  This allows them to weather the bad storms and hurricanes, which can wash over the island.  Many cottages on the south end are also built on small canals cut perpendicular to the sound, which allows boat access and private docks.  These are the prime properties, but sometimes hard to get for rentals.  My VA/NC cousins who come every year have the advantage of reserving their same cottages a year in advance on the day they checkout. 

Typical Cottage

This year Le Anna and I are sharing a cottage with my brother Joe, my sister Ruth and her family.  Our family does not put on any pressure to do group activities, so the week can be as relaxing as you want it to be.  I love the beach, so my normal daily routine goes something like this:

·      Wake up around 7 AM, go for a walk and/or have coffee on the porch and then a leisurely breakfast

·      Pack a lunch and go down to the beach around 10 or 11 AM with chairs and big umbrella – we stake out the same area of the beach every year, and every day – and sit, visit with cousins, swim or walk on the beach until you “burn” out, which could be anywhere from 2 to 5 PM.

·      Go back to the cottage, shower and get cleaned up for dinner.  We go out about every other night, or take turns cooking at the cottage.

·      After dinner it’s time for more visiting with cousins, wandering from house to house, and a few nightcaps.

Afternoon Chat Circle

 

Body Surfing

Although the weather can be stifling hot in July, there is always a wonderful breeze on the beach that makes it tolerable.  The asphalt on the street may scald your bare feet, but as soon as you top the sand dune on the way to the beach, the miraculous ocean breeze refreshes you.  Another good thing about our spot on south Topsail is that there are no cottages that front on the beach (they have all been washed away in previous hurricanes).  So you walk directly from the street over a small dune and down to the beach.  Perfect!

Mornings at the beach are time for the kids to build sand castles, and the older kids to swim or surf on boogie boards.  Walks down the beach while hunting for shells and fossilized shark teeth are popular.  The afternoons are time for beer drinking and more social activities such as beach baseball, bocci ball, or sitting in circles in the shallow pools just off the beach at low tide.

Topsail Roller Rink - unchanged in 50 years

 

Kids love sand

This year there are about 80 of the Watkins clan here, along with another 40 family friends who have joined us.  We were fortunate to have two large gatherings of the clan – one night with the 14 remaining first cousins and their spouses, and one night with the whole fam-dam-ily to celebrate a 50^th wedding anniversary of one cousin and his wife.  These times are very special, and it’s quite amazing that everyone can get along cordially even though our politics and other beliefs are widely different.  No arguments or hard feelings that I saw anyway.

1994 Group Photo - we are much larger now!

The week came to an end sooner than we wanted, but we left with an inner glow of warm family love.  Our insight for this week is that there is nothing more important than family relationships.  You may not see each other very often, but the deep ties are always there, and when you need support it can be quickly found in family.

Sunset over the Sound

When the Mountain is Out!

When you live in the Pacific NW, specifically Washington State, you quickly learn the phrase “when the Mountain is out.”  The Mountain refers to Mt. Rainier, and it is spoken of with great respect and always capitalized as “the Mountain.”  At 14,411’ Mt. Rainier is the highest peak in WA, dominates the landscape SE of Seattle, and is the most glaciated peak in the contiguous US with 26 glaciers and 36 square miles of permanent snowfields.  Six major rivers flow from the glaciers.

And yes, the Mountain is an active volcano.  It is characterized as stratovolcano, described as having a steep profile and periodic explosive eruptions.   The last significant volcanic eruption was in the mid-1800’s.  The summit is capped by two overlapping craters, each about 1000’ in diameter.  The rims of the craters are snow-free due to geothermal heat being radiated from within the mountain.

Living in the NW we are always aware that “the Mountain” is capable of erupting with little warning and gigantic lahars (mudflows) would threaten the valleys below, endangering thousands of people.   Memories of Mt. St. Helens blowing in 1980 continue to linger in the minds of many, and a major eruption of Mt. Rainier would potentially be catastrophic to the greater Seattle-Tacoma region.   But in the meantime, we love our Mountain!

Mt. Rainier from Federal Way, WA

When we drive from Richland to Seattle, we cross the Columbia River at Vantage and begin the climb up to Ryegrass.  As we near the summit we begin to wonder, “will the Mountain be out.”  It’s always the question we ask ourselves, and always a joy to see . . . if it’s out! 

View of Rainier from Ryegrass, June 2016

On this particular trip the Mountain was not out, which is more the norm.  But when it is, it pops up about 5000’ higher in elevation than most of the surrounding Cascades so it makes quite an impression.  From the summit of Ryegrass I would guess the Mountain is a good 85 miles away as the crow flies (make that a Seahawk in WA.)  Even at that distance the Mountain is striking.

After completing our business in Seattle, we drove south to the small town of Eatonville to spend the night. 

Mural of Eatonville, WA

The weather was overcast so we were a bit concerned about the following day’s drive through Mt. Rainier National Park.  However, the skies parted, the sun came through, and there was “the Mountain.”  Pure joy and awe! 

The Park is the nation’s fifth national park and is nearly 370 square miles with Mt. Rainier rising in the center of the Park.  Surrounded by old growth forest and alpine meadows, it is an extraordinary site.  Our day’s drive would take us from Longmire at the west entrance to Paradise on the south slope of the Mountain, and out of the Park at Ohanaceposh on the southeastern corner of the Park.

Longmire is a popular destination and the only lodge open year around.  Not far from greater Seattle-Tacoma-Olympia, Longmire receives over 500,000 visitors annually while the Park itself receives over 1.5 million visitors yearly.  The Longmire National Historic District is known for its traditional rustic structures, an architecture style used throughout the Park.  Originally founded in 1883 by James Longmire, the trail led to some cabins at the Longmire hot springs, about 13 miles from Ashford, the nearest community.  In 1889, John Muir visited on his way to ascend to the summit of Mt. Rainier and within ten years the Longmire area became the administrative headquarters for the Park, which was founded in 1899.  There are a number of easy and accessible walks taking off from Longmire, across meadows and on a clear day showing off views of the Mountain.

Bob at Longmire

Old growth tree

We continued up the Nisqually valley to Paradise.  Driving through the old growth forests of Douglas fir, western red cedar, and western hemlock the trees provide a thick habitat for wildlife.  About 97% of the Park is designated as National Wilderness.  We stopped at a few of the lookouts, hiked to a couple waterfalls, and enjoyed the drive.

Christine Falls

Nisqually River, downriver

A peek of the peak!

Nisqually River, upriver

Narada Falls

Paradise is located 13 miles east of Longmire, at an elevation of 5400’.  Remember, there’s 9000’ of mountain immediately above you when you are at Paradise!  The road is maintained most of the winter (always check road conditions) and is therefore a winter sports destination.  The Jackson Visitor Center, named for long-time WA Congressman Henry M. (Scoop) Jackson, is open year around (weekends only in the winter) and provides many informative and necessary visitor services.  The Paradise Inn, also traditional rustic-style architecture, opens mid-May to mid-October.

 

View from Jackson Visitor Center

the Mountain

2015/16 snow about 600"

Of course, the crowning glory of Paradise is majestic Mt. Rainier.  On this particular visit the clouds drifted around the Mountain exposing spectacular views and then shrouding it just as quickly.  The weather was beautifully crisp and perfect for some short walks up the mountainside.  Paradise is very well known for its meadows of wildflowers however we were a bit early to see many flowers as we quickly encountered snowfields melting in the summer sun.  If hearty and experienced enough, you can walk up to the Wonderland Trail, a 93-mile circular route around the Mountain.  One of the snowfall signs indicated a range of about 250" - nearly 1200" of snow; that's what has been recorded.

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Paradise Inn

Paradise Inn

Paradise Inn, rustic-style architecture

Avalanche Lilies

Leaving, we continued our drive down Paradise Valley under the shadow of the Tatoosh Range and out of the National Park at Ohanaceposh at the SE corner of the Park.  There’s a very large camping area along the Ohanaceposh River; we have fond memories of camping there 30 years ago when we were new to WA.  At an elevation of only 1900’, Ohanaceposh is nestled in old-growth forest and is quite a contrast to the snowfields and alpine meadows higher up the Mountain.  Not far from Ohanaceposh is the Grove of the Patriarchs, known as an ancient cathedral forest of western red cedars and Douglas Firs, some of which are 1000+ years old. 

It’s worth noting that another seasonal route takes off from Ohanaceposh where you can drive north to the junction of Chinook and Cayuse Passes and cut back west to the Mountain at Sunrise on the NE slope.  We’ve been several times to Sunrise, and at 6400’ it offers an impressive view of the Mountain. 

Chinook Pass view, 2011

Cayuse Pass view, 2011

View from Sunrise, 2013

Wildflowers at Sunrise, 2013

 

The Mountain is a big, notable mountain and at over 236,800 acres Mt. Rainier National Park is a big, notable park.  Spending a day in the Park doesn’t really do it justice but on the other hand being able to drive through it, even if only for a day trip, makes us appreciate the wisdom of those who fought back in the late 1890’s to preserve and protect this area for future generations.  We are in awe of the magnificence and beauty of Mt. Rainier and the surrounding National Park.

It strikes me that the Mountain, specifically wondering “if it is out” is a lot like our retirement.  Some days it’s all clear and you can see it, others the road is a bit curvy and the fog shrouds the destination.  But all of it is a journey, and today, we are grateful that the Mountain is out. 

Flowers, Vampires, & the Olympics

Spring is in full swing in the Pacific NW!  We are enjoying warmer weather but also appreciate the occasional cooler day knowing that summer will bring triple digits in the Columbia basin.  April started with a visit from my 86+ year old mother and a trip to the Skagit Valley, about an hour north of Seattle, to see the tulips. 
http://tulipfestival.org/ 

Timing a visit to see the tulip fields in their peak is always tricky since blooming is at the mercy of Mother Nature.  But we hit it just right and were blessed with two beautiful days of spring weather and amazing fields of tulips!

After a couple days viewing tulips we went down to greater Seattle for a visit with “the kids.”  Amy and Shane had planned a fun weekend visit with Grandma.  The highlight event was a visit to Chihuly Gardens and Glass.  Dale Chihuly is a NW boy and we all take pride in his international success as a glass artist, teacher and mentor. 

 
The CGG  is conveniently located immediately adjacent to the Space Needle and well worth a visit if you find yourself in Seattle.  FYI, if you are in Tacoma, WA plan a visit to the Museum of Glass, which also features glass by Chihuly and other 20^th & 21^st Century glass artists, as well as demonstrations of glass blowing.
http://www.chihulygardenandglass.com/
http://museumofglass.org/ 

Leaving greater Seattle, we traveled to Port Angeles on the Olympic Peninsula and took the Blackball Ferry across the Straight of Juan de Fuca to beautiful Victoria, British Columbia Canada.  https://www.cohoferry.com/main/   Victoria is a lovely city and makes a great first impression when arriving by ferry and coming into the Inner Harbor.  Your first views are of the Empress Hotel, currently under exterior renovation and also of the Parliament buildings.  Though out on the reaches of Vancouver Island, the city of Victoria is the capital of British Columbia, and is also known as the most “English” of all Canada’s cities.

 Although the weather changed to a gentle NW drizzle, we enjoyed a day at beautiful Butchart Gardens.  Mom had always wanted to visit and I think she was pleased.  The 55-acre gardens are beautifully cared for and the spring flowers were in their glory.  Once a limestone quarry, the sunken gardens are now a lovely floral display thanks to the vision and efforts of Mrs. Jennie Butchart back in the early 20^th C when she started growing roses and sweet peas on the grounds.  Still family owned, the Gardens are now designated as a National Historic Site of Canada and worth a visit.  We also enjoyed a proper English afternoon tea at the restaurant, formerly the Butchart family’s dining room.  The two days in Victoria were a fast visit but we all enjoyed it.

Returning home from our flower tour with Mom we enjoyed some quiet time and short day trips for the remainder of her visit.  She particularly enjoyed going to 14 Hands wine tasting room, nestled on the outskirts of Prosser at the base of the Horse Heaven Hills.  The facility is a testament to the homesteading history of the region as well as the Columbia Valley vineyards and wine industry. 

Mom’s visit to WA was sixteen days and I think she was more than ready to head home.  We kept her much more busy than her life in Colorado.  She was a trooper and we hope she was happy with the trip.

Mid-May had us back in Port Townsend where it is always a pleasure to spend a few days.  We were a bit caught off-guard by the cooler weather but our timing was perfect for seeing the rhododendrons at the peak of their bloom!  Bob’s been doing a lot of hard manual labor on our building lot, trying to clear some of the undergrowth and smaller trees.  Kala Point (our development) has very stringent covenants regarding owners clearing their land and he will certainly comply.  In a way it seems like a waste of time because we know the undergrowth will grow back but for the time being it gave us a sense of the “lay of the land” and allowed us to think more seriously about building or selling.  Lots of decisions to be made!

Maybe that realization is my insight into retirement for today . . . most of us think of retirement as “the end” but the only thing that ended was Bob going to work every day.  We have lots of life ahead of us, and along with that many decisions to make and considerations to help guide us through this phase of our lives.

Leaving Port Townsend we took a long weekend to explore the beautiful Olympic Peninsula.  Most of the Peninsula is within the bounds of Olympic National Park, established in 1938.  What lands are not in the Park are largely either National Forest or were ceded to the federal government through treaties in 1855 with at least eight Native American tribes.

Our first stop was a drive to Hurricane Ridge, aptly named.  The views of the high peaks of the Olympics are stunning (on a clear day) but we had mixed weather (fairly normal) and could not see 7865” Mt. Olympus.  The mountain is one of the most glaciated peaks in the US, and Hurricane Ridge averages 400+ inches of snow a year.

After leaving the Ridge, we traveled around beautiful Lake Crescent and up to Sol Duc Hot Springs.  Blog followers know we love hot springs and we were pleased to learn this one is back in operation.  Years ago the NPS closed the springs due to a number of health violations and it appears the new management is on track toward improving the springs and resort.  After relaxing in the springs we took the short hike up to Sol Duc Falls.  Earlier in the day we had walked through the Ancient Groves, always a humbling experience.

Highway 101 skirts the bounds of Olympic National Park, traveling through National Forests, private land, and tribal reservations.  Logging operations continue to be a mainstay of the region but tourism, particularly sport fishing, also plays a big role in the economy.  The town of Forks and the surrounding forests were the filming locations of the Twilight movie series.  I’d say vampire sightings and references have surpassed Sasquatch!  The local restaurants and motels offer Twilight burgers, Bella’s suites, and all sorts of vampire merchandise.  The whole Twilight genre escaped us as we have not read the novels nor seen the movies . . . maybe we need to order those up on Netflix!

The day we were at Forks was a clear sunny day so we headed out to the beaches at La Push to watch the sunset.  La Push is the cultural, administrative, and ancestral center of the Quileute tribe. The Quileute River drains into the Pacific at First Beach and offers great views of the Pacific Ocean. The following morning we went out to Rialto beach, which is on the north side of the Quileute River.  The WA coastline is very dramatic, offering views of sea stacks and rocks offshore, and the shore is lined with a barrier of washed up trees (yes, entire trees) and smaller logs.  Mother Nature’s forces are amazing!

If you have never been to Hoh Rain Forest, you must visit!  It is a fascinating eco system, a thick forest of coniferous and deciduous trees and receives about 140 - 170 inches of rain annually.  That’s up to 14 feet of rain!  Located within Olympic National Park, Hoh is about an hour from Forks east of Hwy. 101.  Sorry to say, we skipped going to Hoh on this trip having been several times but also because we knew we were going to be exploring the rainforest around Lake Quinault.

Because the WA coastline is protected by being within Olympic National Park, there are few places where Hwy. 101 actually follow the shore.  But one of those places is Kalaloch, where the forest meets the beach.  Kalaloch is a Quinault word meaning “good place to land” and it is a good place for a long beach walk.  The oceanside resort offers a lodge and cabins, and amenities.  Be sure to notice the “driftwood” lined beach!

Our destination was beautiful Lake Quinault and we enjoyed exploring both shores of the mountain lake.  But staying at the historic Lodge was a special experience.  The grounds are lovely, with beautiful views of the Lake.  The lodge’s rooms are basic but very comfortable, and it was such a nice change of pace to not have TV in the room!  We enjoyed sitting on the lodge deck and in the comfortable lobby before dining in the old-world elegance of the Roosevelt room.  After dinner we visited with an elderly couple on their “bucket list” trip of returning to the Olympic Peninsula; he had grown up in Forks and La Push, and hadn’t been back in decades.  It was such an interesting conversation and always fun to meet new people!

Our Olympic Peninsula journey ended with a morning drive down through the beach towns of Moclips, Pacific Beach, Seabrook, Copalis, and Ocean Shores.  These towns are on the southwest corner of the Olympic Peninsula.  Point Brown forms the northern boundary of Gray’s Harbor, known as a birdwatcher’s paradise and also famed for abundant Pacific coastal shellfish.  The area is an interesting mix of fresh water sporting activities and miles of beaches.

Photo from Gray's Harbor Tourism

Bob has been retired for a year now!  It’s been a busy, fun-filled, travel-filled year and yes, there have been a couple bumps along the way but so far we still enjoy each other and seeing new places and meeting new people!  That’s been our mantra for retirement and life going forward.  Thanks for following our journey!