When the Mountain is Out!

When you live in the Pacific NW, specifically Washington State, you quickly learn the phrase “when the Mountain is out.”  The Mountain refers to Mt. Rainier, and it is spoken of with great respect and always capitalized as “the Mountain.”  At 14,411’ Mt. Rainier is the highest peak in WA, dominates the landscape SE of Seattle, and is the most glaciated peak in the contiguous US with 26 glaciers and 36 square miles of permanent snowfields.  Six major rivers flow from the glaciers.

And yes, the Mountain is an active volcano.  It is characterized as stratovolcano, described as having a steep profile and periodic explosive eruptions.   The last significant volcanic eruption was in the mid-1800’s.  The summit is capped by two overlapping craters, each about 1000’ in diameter.  The rims of the craters are snow-free due to geothermal heat being radiated from within the mountain.

Living in the NW we are always aware that “the Mountain” is capable of erupting with little warning and gigantic lahars (mudflows) would threaten the valleys below, endangering thousands of people.   Memories of Mt. St. Helens blowing in 1980 continue to linger in the minds of many, and a major eruption of Mt. Rainier would potentially be catastrophic to the greater Seattle-Tacoma region.   But in the meantime, we love our Mountain!

Mt. Rainier from Federal Way, WA

When we drive from Richland to Seattle, we cross the Columbia River at Vantage and begin the climb up to Ryegrass.  As we near the summit we begin to wonder, “will the Mountain be out.”  It’s always the question we ask ourselves, and always a joy to see . . . if it’s out! 

View of Rainier from Ryegrass, June 2016

On this particular trip the Mountain was not out, which is more the norm.  But when it is, it pops up about 5000’ higher in elevation than most of the surrounding Cascades so it makes quite an impression.  From the summit of Ryegrass I would guess the Mountain is a good 85 miles away as the crow flies (make that a Seahawk in WA.)  Even at that distance the Mountain is striking.

After completing our business in Seattle, we drove south to the small town of Eatonville to spend the night. 

Mural of Eatonville, WA

The weather was overcast so we were a bit concerned about the following day’s drive through Mt. Rainier National Park.  However, the skies parted, the sun came through, and there was “the Mountain.”  Pure joy and awe! 

The Park is the nation’s fifth national park and is nearly 370 square miles with Mt. Rainier rising in the center of the Park.  Surrounded by old growth forest and alpine meadows, it is an extraordinary site.  Our day’s drive would take us from Longmire at the west entrance to Paradise on the south slope of the Mountain, and out of the Park at Ohanaceposh on the southeastern corner of the Park.

Longmire is a popular destination and the only lodge open year around.  Not far from greater Seattle-Tacoma-Olympia, Longmire receives over 500,000 visitors annually while the Park itself receives over 1.5 million visitors yearly.  The Longmire National Historic District is known for its traditional rustic structures, an architecture style used throughout the Park.  Originally founded in 1883 by James Longmire, the trail led to some cabins at the Longmire hot springs, about 13 miles from Ashford, the nearest community.  In 1889, John Muir visited on his way to ascend to the summit of Mt. Rainier and within ten years the Longmire area became the administrative headquarters for the Park, which was founded in 1899.  There are a number of easy and accessible walks taking off from Longmire, across meadows and on a clear day showing off views of the Mountain.

Bob at Longmire

Old growth tree

We continued up the Nisqually valley to Paradise.  Driving through the old growth forests of Douglas fir, western red cedar, and western hemlock the trees provide a thick habitat for wildlife.  About 97% of the Park is designated as National Wilderness.  We stopped at a few of the lookouts, hiked to a couple waterfalls, and enjoyed the drive.

Christine Falls

Nisqually River, downriver

A peek of the peak!

Nisqually River, upriver

Narada Falls

Paradise is located 13 miles east of Longmire, at an elevation of 5400’.  Remember, there’s 9000’ of mountain immediately above you when you are at Paradise!  The road is maintained most of the winter (always check road conditions) and is therefore a winter sports destination.  The Jackson Visitor Center, named for long-time WA Congressman Henry M. (Scoop) Jackson, is open year around (weekends only in the winter) and provides many informative and necessary visitor services.  The Paradise Inn, also traditional rustic-style architecture, opens mid-May to mid-October.

 

View from Jackson Visitor Center

the Mountain

2015/16 snow about 600"

Of course, the crowning glory of Paradise is majestic Mt. Rainier.  On this particular visit the clouds drifted around the Mountain exposing spectacular views and then shrouding it just as quickly.  The weather was beautifully crisp and perfect for some short walks up the mountainside.  Paradise is very well known for its meadows of wildflowers however we were a bit early to see many flowers as we quickly encountered snowfields melting in the summer sun.  If hearty and experienced enough, you can walk up to the Wonderland Trail, a 93-mile circular route around the Mountain.  One of the snowfall signs indicated a range of about 250" - nearly 1200" of snow; that's what has been recorded.

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Paradise Inn

Paradise Inn

Paradise Inn, rustic-style architecture

Avalanche Lilies

Leaving, we continued our drive down Paradise Valley under the shadow of the Tatoosh Range and out of the National Park at Ohanaceposh at the SE corner of the Park.  There’s a very large camping area along the Ohanaceposh River; we have fond memories of camping there 30 years ago when we were new to WA.  At an elevation of only 1900’, Ohanaceposh is nestled in old-growth forest and is quite a contrast to the snowfields and alpine meadows higher up the Mountain.  Not far from Ohanaceposh is the Grove of the Patriarchs, known as an ancient cathedral forest of western red cedars and Douglas Firs, some of which are 1000+ years old. 

It’s worth noting that another seasonal route takes off from Ohanaceposh where you can drive north to the junction of Chinook and Cayuse Passes and cut back west to the Mountain at Sunrise on the NE slope.  We’ve been several times to Sunrise, and at 6400’ it offers an impressive view of the Mountain. 

Chinook Pass view, 2011

Cayuse Pass view, 2011

View from Sunrise, 2013

Wildflowers at Sunrise, 2013

 

The Mountain is a big, notable mountain and at over 236,800 acres Mt. Rainier National Park is a big, notable park.  Spending a day in the Park doesn’t really do it justice but on the other hand being able to drive through it, even if only for a day trip, makes us appreciate the wisdom of those who fought back in the late 1890’s to preserve and protect this area for future generations.  We are in awe of the magnificence and beauty of Mt. Rainier and the surrounding National Park.

It strikes me that the Mountain, specifically wondering “if it is out” is a lot like our retirement.  Some days it’s all clear and you can see it, others the road is a bit curvy and the fog shrouds the destination.  But all of it is a journey, and today, we are grateful that the Mountain is out.