Outside the Inside Passage

Days 16 – 19, Juneau – Sitka – Juneau, AK

Once again we were boarding a ferry, this time to sail from Juneau to Sitka.  The M/V Chenega is one of a new class of ships, called “a fast ferry” because it takes a direct route from Juneau to Sitka but also because it is a different type of ship.  This ferry is a catamaran, powered by water jets as well as diesel engines.  The interior of the boat is nicely done with spacious lounges and comfortable seating.  There’s a children’s play area and plenty of room for people to throw down a sleeping bag if desired.  The boat traveled at about 32 knots/hr (36.8mph) on open water, slowing of course through the narrow parts of the straits.  The trip took about 4 ½ hours.

 

M/V Chenega

Inlay on Ferry Chenega

Beautiful snow-capped mountains

Outlying islands

Sitka was named from the Tlingit word Sheet’ká, or a seaside village on Baranof Island.  Sitka, located on the eastern shore of Baranof Island is the only village in SE Alaska on the sea side, or “outside” of the barrier islands along the coast of Canada that comprise the Alaskan Inside Passage.  All the other main towns are “inside” the Passage.  The Tlingit people have occupied Sitka for over 10,000 years.

We all learned about Seward’s Folly when we were in secondary school.  We’ve talked a lot about it on this trip . . . why did Russia sell Alaska?  Why didn’t Canada try to get Alaska?  Why did the US want Alaska?  Some of the answers became apparent during our visit to Sitka.

The Russian-American Company occupied Old Sitka in 1799, calling it Redoubt St. Michael.  The Russian trading company controlled what they called “the colonies”, areas of Alaska where they exploited the Natives mostly for fur.  In retaliation in 1802, the Tlingit destroyed the original settlement and killed most of the Russians.  Alexander Baranov, the governor of the Russian-American Company then returned in 1804 and after multiple tries he succeeded in gaining control of the settlement.  At that point the original settlement was renamed New Archangel.  Ultimately Sitka became the capital of Russia America, with Baranov designated as governor.  He had long before established his residency and seat of power at what is now called Castle Hill.

The people of Sitka want their town to be remembered as a “real” town, not just a place the tourists go.  It is a working town with a population of about 9,000 with schools, services, hospitals, airport, ferry and cruise ship harbors, and mostly commercial fishing.  Someone said Sitka is a “quaint little town with a big fishing problem” and it was meant with the utmost respect for this very dangerous profession, where fishing for salmon, halibut, and lingcod is predominant.  About 20% of the population makes a living by fishing or involvement with the greater seafood production industry; the port is one of the busiest and most valuable (terms of seafood value) in the US.

The ferry ride was very smooth and the time went by quickly.  Once we entered the narrows we started spotting bald eagles and counted seven in a very short distance.  The ferry terminal is a short distance from town so we took the Sitka Tours bus into our hotel and dropped our luggage.  Off we went in search of lunch, and found a food truck offering ling cod sandwiches and chowder.  Yummy!

Local food truck

One of Sitka’s main tourist attractions, and a holdover from Sitka’s Russian history, is St. Michael’s cathedral.  Originally built in 1848 this church suffered a devastating fire in 1966 but the town rushed to save many of the beautiful artifacts, which are on display today.  Bishop Innocent was well respected in Sitka and his home served as a school.  Today, the original Russian Bishop’s House is under renovation by the National Park Service.

St. Michael's Cathedral

St. Michael's Cathedral

Russian Bishop's House

We wandered around town and came to Totem Square.  On the hill above is the Alaskan Pioneer Home, one of six AK assisted living facilities offering continuity of care and run by the state.  We spotted the stairs to Castle Hill and climbed up for a beautiful view of Sitka Sound and the distant island mountains.  This is the spot where Russia turned over Alaska to the US. 

 

Castle Hill Commemoration Display

Pano view from Castle Hill

Historically, Russia was experiencing turmoil with the British Empire.  Canada was not yet a country and was a part of the British Empire.   Russia perceived selling Alaska to the US as a lesser threat than if the British Empire gained control of it.  Also, the US wanted to gain control of the continental coastline and increase its potential for trans-Pacific trade.  Ultimately, Russia offered to sell Alaska to the US and the transfer of power occurred in 1867 at a cost of $7.2 million ($0.02 per acre).

While under Russian rule Sitka was a busy seaport but soon after the transfer to the US, steamships began bringing tourists.  Now tourism is a major contributor to the local economy.  We enjoyed dinner watching fishing vessels head out for the evening, going under the cable bridge which connects Baranof Island with Japonski Island.  The expansion of Sitka across the strait happened when the Tlingit settled there after losing the battle with Russia, and now the US Coast Guard, the airport, hospital, and the University of Alaska SE are all important installations on the west side of the strait.

Our next day in Sitka was filled with sightseeing.  People we had met on the ferry from Skagway to Juneau recommended a visit to the Alaska Raptor Center, a rehabilitation, research and educational center on the outskirts of Sitka.  It was an easy mile walk to it and located in a beautiful setting surrounded by the Tongass National Forest.  The presentations were interesting and the ability to see raptors, especially eagles, up close was worthwhile.

  

Across the road is the Sitka National Historic Park.  This is a beautiful forested park, managed by the National Park Service.  The walking trails are pleasant and Tlingit and Haida totem poles are scattered throughout.  Each totem has an interpretative display and the visitor’s center is filled with information about the totems and other Native artifacts.  The visitor center also had two native carvers doing demos – one carving a canoe paddle, and one making a bentwood box.  It was very interesting to listen to these artists explain their craft and the associated intricacies. This park is historically significant as the site where the Russians battled the Tlingit.

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Local carver & Tlingit story teller

Another opportunity for a pleasant walk was to visit the Russian Cemetery, located on a hillside above downtown Sitka.  The graves are now 200 years old and with few exceptions have become very neglected.  The headstones have fallen over and are covered with moss; some of the graves have tilted and the forest is taking over.  It is sacred territory and a reminder of the strong influence of Russian history in this community.

Russian Cemetery

Russian Cemetery

We had an interesting conversation with the desk clerk at our motel.  She hoped we were going to be able to watch the Native dancers later in the morning; five of her grandchildren would be dancing wearing their ceremonial regalia.  Apparently the performances are held on Wednesday and Thursday during cruise ship season.  Sadly, we are leaving Sitka before the first dance.

On the return trip to Juneau we saw a number of fishing vessels going out for their catch.  I can’t help but think about the danger of commercial fishing.  The boats seem so small and the passage waters are so wide, deep, and cold.  The mountainous islands forming the straits are snow-capped and a few have glaciers hanging.  We saw two whales off in the distance, blowing their horns!  Our insight for today was that we humans are pretty insignificant in this big wide world.  There is a lot of wild country out there.